The only problem with this is that a student could see it in their own after and reread parts they think that they didn’t understand.
Some of their best ideas are actually on paper in notes or as paper writings. If you’re a teacher, you may possibly be at the position of reviewing some of work in the future. When they are finished reading, students will typically want to go back and examine what they have only read, if not browse the entire piece. Maybe it had been reassembled incorrectly before I got it? Either way, thanks NParsons for the inspiration (and the side note about which screws go into which holes).It’s not uncommon for students to devote some time to read over paper writings and re read some of the paper later on. I got in, moved some stuff around, and may have switched the orientation of the black plastic sleeve in order to get it to poke through the hole. I didn't really know what was meant by the "cam arm," but whatever. I typicically wouldn't have dared to take a camera apart, but as I got the Super at such a nice price, I figured a return and reacquisition would be more trouble than risking my butchery of the internals. As a result, film frame spacing was off, as there wasn't appropriate tension on the film spool, I suppose. I just bought a Super on eBay, and it arrived with this problem. Don´t know where it came from, but my camera works fine without it (I think).
The failure was due to a loose piece of metal (black) that seemed to have been broken off from somewhere. Hi! Found this thread via google and I just want to say thank you very much! I opened my camera and quickly got it working again. Also, the two longer screws go in the ends of the bottom plate the shorter screw goes in the middle. PS: When you take off the bottom plate, be careful not to lose the little rectangular black plastic insulator that fits around the three motor drive pins. These kinds of problems probably will require repair by a professional. If the cam arm doesn't click into the groove, then the spring is probably broken or unhooked. If the cocking action doesn't move the cam arm, or if the cam arm isn't moving enough to release the groove in the button sleeve, then the cam arm isn't making proper contact with the winding lever ratchet wheel and may be bent or worn.
With your fingertips, gently turn the sleeve on the shaft. If the metal shaft of the button is depressed but the plastic sleeve is not, try jiggling the toothed spindle inside the film compartment as geowelch suggests and work the winding lever and shutter again. On normal ME Supers, the beginning of the winding action (after the lever is popped out to winding position) should release the button. Then work the winding lever and shutter and try the rewind button again a few times to make sure your repair worked. With a small tool, gently press outward on the end of the cam arm nearest the winder shaft, and the other end of the cam arm should release the sleeve and the button. Don't lose the screws! You'll then be able to see the button, the black plastic sleeve around it, and the cam arm that fits into the groove. If you have a small cross-head screwdriver, take off the bottom cover (three tiny screws, one toward each end and one in the middle). When the winding lever motion begins, the cam arm is pushed out of the groove and releases the button. Inside the camera there is a groove around that sleeve, and when the button is pushed in, a spring-loaded cam arm clicks into that groove and holds the button in. Notice there is a little black plastic sleeve around the rewind release button. Just tried both of your suggestions and they haven't worked! If the camera is empty, try opening the back, put your thumb against the toothed spindle next to the take up spool and work it back and forth gently, see if the rewind button pops out.
It doesn't pop out when you wind the film advance lever? My film rewind button is stuck pushed down into the camera, can anyone please help me/give suggestions on how I could resolve this issue?
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